These instruction sheets are for the three main products (Blue, Wood Finish, and Brass Cleaner)and the maintenance pack. Scan down for each.

Van's Instant Gun Blue Instructions

Degrease:  Before you begin bluing, make sure to degrease with a good solvent.  If you purchased the bluing kit, a bottle of “CitriGun” was included as a degreaser.  Alternatively, you may use a good solvent such as M.E.K., Acetone, Brake cleaner, or clear PVC pipe cleaner (not the purple stuff).  Wash the weapon thoroughly with your degreaser.  If the weapon is extremely dirty, use a hair dryer to heat the metal and open the pores before degreasing.    If after applying the bluing, you see spotting, or light areas, try changing to another degreaser.  Some synthetics can not be cut by all solvents, i.e.:  If you are using an Acetone, switch to a Keytone, if you’re using “CitriGun” try switching to the PVC pipe cleaner, etc…  No solvent or cleaner will remove 100% of the synthetics 100% of the time. Wipe dry, then proceed to step two: Bluing.

 

Bluing: After the Weapon is thoroughly degreased apply the Van’s Instant Gun Blue. To Restore: If surface rust is present – wash metal with fine steel wool dipped into the bluing. Proceed to bluing steps below. To Repair: Fix texture (scratches, pits, etc.) by sanding or steel wooling until you match the surrounding area. * The more exact the match in texture – the more perfect the bluing!  Apply the bluing and rub it in, keeping it wet. Always apply with a soft bristle toothbrush.  Cotton swabs, paper towels and cloth contain lanolin, dyes, perfumes, etc., and may prevent the bluing from working to your satisfaction. The object is to soak the bluing in for 3 to 5 minutes. The longer you soak it the darker it gets. If you stop too soon, you can apply more. If any “spotting” occurs, rub the area with #0000 steel wool dipped in the bluing, wipe off and reapply bluing with a toothbrush. When you achieve the desired color, wipe dry with a paper towel, and neutralize by rubbing in a petroleum-based oil. (Not WD-40, or other synthetics…they don’t neutralize the acid!) We suggest “Supr-Fine”, or “Supr-Fine Ultra”, available from MPI, but any petroleum-based oil will suffice.

 

Top coat wax:  This can’t be stressed enough:  Wax Your Gun!!  It may sound out of step to what you’re used to hearing but have you ever heard someone say:  “I oiled it, put it in the closet, pulled it out a week later and it was rusted!  But I oiled it!!”  Oil floats on water…wax doesn’t.  If you apply a thin coat of wax over your barrels, they won’t rust even if ya drop ‘em in salt water!  We now carry a 1oz. bottle of liquid style carnauba called “TopIt” that is tough enough to stand up to 100° saltwater, and even fresh blood, and is still flexible enough to be used on stocks.  Take a small amount of wax (just a drop for one side of the stock) and buff onto your weapon.  Allow the wax to haze up and then buff off with a soft cloth.  That’s all there is to it.   When taking a weapon into the field, apply another light coat to ensure that the wax is performing at peak.

Hints & Tips

·        Heating a barrel up (hair dryer) will speed up the bluing process. Prime Temp. 90-140F

·        Parts may also be dipped as opposed to washing on. Check after 2-3 minutes.

·        This bluing reacts to ferrous metal only.  Will not work on alloys or aluminum.

·        Texture shows.  Rough = dull   Glass beaded = satin   Smooth = shiny

·        Do not use “Break Free” or metal polishes over any gun blue.  They remove both metal and bluing.  Bluing may be buffed with fine steel wool to brighten (#0000).

 

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, an MSDS, or TECHNICAL HELP:           

Call or FAX 1-608-756-0044 

 

ARROW WOOD FINISH INSTRUCTIONS

ARROW WOOD FINISH contains oils, which penetrate the wood,, a natural filler that fills the pores and scratches in the wood, and is a flexible sealer to weather-proof. Nothing else is required. Any type of stain may be used if desired.

            The first applications penetrate the wood. Each additional application attaches itself to the former. The result is a finish that is actually bonded in the wood. This is not a hard, brittle finish that cracks, chips, or peels, but a resilient finish that withstands hard use indoors or out. It is also excellent for spot repairs, touch-up, or restoring and protecting other finishes.

 

SURFACE PREPARATION: On unfinished wood, sand surfaces with 320/400 grit paper. If stain is required, apply according to manufacturers instructions. If ARROW is to be applied to a previously finished wood: A) If the old finish is peeling, cracking, blistering, or chipping, it would be best to strip it off to obtain the strongest results. B) If the previous finish is just damaged or worn, or has lost its luster, ARROW may be applied over the old finish.

 

APPLICATION: DO NOT POUR FINISH DIRECTLY ON WOOD. Spread a few drops in the palm of your hand or on a cloth pad and rub thoroughly into the wood. USE SPARINGLY. Next, take a piece of “wet-or-dry” abrasive paper, moisten it lightly with the wood finish and use it to “wet-sand” the finish into the wood. When the finish becomes stiff (as it dries) discard the paper and completely rub the surface dry with your hand or a cloth. Allow the finish to cure 24 hours between coats. Each application with the abrasive paper will fill the pores but will leave a satin finish. The coarser the paper, the more filling but the duller the finish. 320 or 400 grit paper leaves a matte finish (like military non-reflective finishes). 600 grit or finer will leave a lustrous satin finish. If a higher gloss is required, when ALL the pores have been filled by using the paper…begin to apply by hand or cloth WITHOUT paper rubbing. These coats should be EXTREMELY light coats, always rubbed dry by hand or cloth. To speed the shining process, after curing, burnish the surface with a nylon stocking wrapped around a soft dry sponge. More coats by hand creates a higher gloss. IMPORTANT NOTE: If a little bit is good – LESS is better! Each coat takes LESS than the previous coat. Always wear the paper out – going to fresh paper too often prevents maximum filling.

 

ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES: A) For maximum filling on raw wood, do not raise the grain for “whiskering”. Apply ARROW to the wood and allow it to sit for 10-15 minutes without rubbing. Grain will rise. NOW buff the finish in (as above). The whiskers become part of the filler (and they have to match…it’s the same wood). B) To clean a dirty or darkened finish without stripping (use Klean & Brite or..) apply ARROW heavier than usual, rub with fine abrasive paper, BUT DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY - ADD MORE FINISH IF NEEDED. After rubbing a short while, wipe loosened finish off with a paper towel, and buff dry. Greases, old tacky finish, or surface damage will be removed. Cure for 24 hours and finish as usual. C) Dents in wood can be raised by applying water to the wood, cover area with a damp cloth, and apply heat (as with a steam iron) to make the water steam. Repeat process until wood no longer swells. Allow to dry and then sand-fill-finish. D) To prevent white-line scratches on urethane or epoxy finishes (or other high gloss finishes), apply ARROW very sparingly just with your hand and rub dry (no paper). Finish will remain shiny but won’t scuff or powderize. E) To finish checkering, carving or other textures without filling or rounding the edges, apply with a toothbrush and brush in well. Wipe excess off and cure. F) To finish spindles, legs and other round items…ARROW may be rubbed in with a cloth like the old shoeshine cloth. Treat cloth with the wood finish, wrap around the spindle, and pull back and forth. G) Flat surfaces (table tops, cupboard doors, etc.) may be finished by applying ARROW and rubbing the wet finish in with an orbital, or palm sander with fine abrasive paper…rather than by hand. When cured ARROW may also be power buffed with a loose wheel or sheepskin buffer to add additional luster.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arrow Brass & Copper Cleaner Instructions

ATTENTION: This product contains acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, and clothing. See cautions on label. Use according to directions. Keep out of reach of children. Wear rubber gloves to prevent burns or stains.

 

DILUTE: ARROW BRASS CLEANER is concentrated. Mix one(1) part cleaner with six(6) parts water to obtain a working solution. (Example: One cap full of cleaner to six caps full of water.) Product may be stored both in the concentrate and dilute forms as long as it is unused (clean). The portion that comes in contact with metal during the cleaning process is contaminated, and though it may be reused for a time, it will not maintain its strength in storage.

 

DIPPING: For cleaning small parts or brass cartridges - 1) Divide parts into 3 to 6 equal piles. (The dirtier the metal, the fewer the piles.) ARROW will clean about 4 or 5 piles of cartridges with average tarnish. 2) Put one pile into a plastic or glass container and pour enough of the diluted cleaner in to just cover the pile.. 3) Soak brass for 15 to 30 seconds and check for cleanliness with a strainer or slotted spoon. 4) If they are clean enough, remove and rinse in clear water. Note: The next batch of brass put into the solution will take longer to get clean. Let the metal tell you when to pull it by checking it periodically. 5) Repeat the process until the solution doesn’t clean the metal in 15 minutes of soaking. 6) Rinsing the brass in hot water makes them dry faster. Discard used solution. Brass is ready to be reloaded - or polished. To obtain a high shine, tumble in dry media or buff lightly with #0000 steel wool.

 

ARROW CLEANS INSIDE AND OUT, LEAVES NO RESIDUE, DOESN’T DAMAGE BRASS, AND WORKS FAST!

 

FOR PIECES TOO LARGE TO DIP: ARROW BRASS CLEANER may be applied with #0000 steel wool, a brush, or a cloth patch. Wipe onto item to be cleaned and rub gently, refreshing your applicator with solution periodically. When clean, wipe excess off with paper towel, and rinse with water. Rinsing may be accomplished by using a dampened paper towel. Note: When no more yellow appears on the towel, rinsing is complete. Allow to dry. Buff to shine with #0000 steel wool if necessary.

 

ADDITIONAL NOTES: A) If the metal has been coated with a preservative (shellac, acrylic, lacquer, etc.) - remove coating with mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, or other solvent BEFORE using ARROW BRASS CLEANER. B) To preserve the brass or copper, after cleaning, coat with a thin layer of CARNAUBA WAX such as an automotive wax. Carnauba wax will not yellow or flake like the “clear coat” sprays and dips, and is excellent protection against tarnish and corrosion. C) Leaving items that have been dipped in their “frosty” looking condition will NOT change their performance, but WILL preserve them for an extended time. D) Used solution that is becoming weak may be made more effective by warming it up. (Not scalding hot, but warm to the touch.)

 

 

 

 

 

MAINTENANCE PACK – INSTRUCTION SHEET

 

 

 

 

GROILE: This is a “grease that pours like an oil”. It is super slippery and super protective. A drop ona sticky slide will free it up and protect under extraordinary conditions. Excellent for long term storage or protection in salt water climates. USE SPARINGLY, wipe off excess.

 

 

 

 

CITRIGUN DEGREASER: This degreaser is non-flammable, has no fumes, and cuts grease, silicone, and oil with ease. It will not damage wood finish so it can be used cleaning gun actions, etc. without taking the gun stock off. It is perfect for cleaning before bluing, and to remove dirt from the stock. Rub it on with a paper towel for normal cleaning, or with #0000 steel wool for heavy duty cleaning. Wipe dry, or rinse with hot water and wipedry. Will not damage skin.

 

 

 

 

 

SMOOTH & BRITE: This is an old-time bore cleaning solution that was popular when nearly allammunition had corrosive powder. It is excellent at removing black powder, and corrosive powder residue. We have added a bore conditioner that protects against further damage between cleanings. Swab the bore liberally with a loose patch dipped into thebore cleaner. Allow to soak for better results. Next dip a bore brush in the cleaner and

run it through the bore several times. Follow with a tight dry patch to remove fouling. Repeat as necessary.

 

 

 

 

 

RUST BLASTER: This rust remover can be used on mild to heavy rust with good results. If the rust is light to medium, use the rust blaster cut with water 50/50. Wipe it on the area that is

rusted with a cloth or paper towel and let soak for a few minutes. Dip some fine steel wool (#0000 or #000) into the remover and lightly rub the rust away. Finish by wiping dry or rinsing with hot water and wiping dry. Oil should be reapplied after using this product to restore protection. Used carefully in dilute form, most minor rust can be removed without damaging bluing. If heavier rust is present, use full strength, apply with fine steel wool, soak for a few minutes, and rub again with the steel wool. Rinse and dry as before. Used full-strength, this product may remove bluing. Test in an inconspicuous area like under the forearm.